Friday market in Shaxi old town
A fascination with weekly markets
Ever since I first visited the Sunday market in Meo Vac, along the Ha Giang Loop in northern Vietnam, I have been fascinated by weekly markets in remote regions. More than just places to buy and sell goods, they are important social gatherings where communities come together, often maintaining traditions that have existed for generations.
Shaxi's Friday market was no exception. While most visitors come for the beautifully preserved old town, a former stop along the Ancient Tea Horse Road, the atmosphere changes completely every Friday. The quiet streets fill with hundreds of people arriving from the surrounding villages to trade, shop, catch up with friends, and spend the morning at one of the region's most vibrant weekly gatherings.
Understanding the rhythm of the market
As a street photographer, markets are often difficult places to work. They are visually rich but also chaotic, and it can be tempting to photograph everything. My goal was not to document every stall, but to understand the rhythm of the market and how people interacted within it.
One of the first things I noticed was how little attention most people paid to the camera. The market was clearly functioning for the people who were there to shop, trade and socialize. Unlike markets that have become tourist attractions, photography wasn't driving the experience. That allowed me to work patiently, spending time in one location and waiting for scenes to develop naturally instead of constantly moving through the crowd.
A full day experience
What I particularly enjoyed about Shaxi's Friday market was that it lasted throughout the day. Most of the weekly markets I've photographed tend to wind down by late morning, which often means working quickly to make the most of the soft early light before it becomes harsh. In Shaxi, I knew I would not only have the morning light to work with, but also the warm glow of golden hour later in the afternoon.
Spending an entire day at the market also changed the way I approached photographing it. Rather than reacting to every scene that caught my attention, I found myself slowing down and becoming more selective. With time on my side, there was less pressure to chase every moment. Familiar faces began to reappear, conversations picked up where they had left off, and certain patterns gradually emerged. What initially felt like a series of disconnected moments slowly revealed itself as a larger story unfolding throughout the day.
Lessons from Shaxi
For anyone interested in documentary or street photography, Shaxi's Friday market offers much more than colourful subjects. It provides an opportunity to observe how a weekly market continues to serve its original purpose despite the growing number of visitors to the region. Rather than chasing dramatic moments, I found that the most meaningful photographs came from slowing down, observing carefully and allowing the market to reveal itself over time.
